ESCAPE TO LAVA

Any mention of North Bengal and you get Darjeeling or Kalimpong at the top
of your mind. It’s rarely that one’s search ends at Lava, when going through
a tourist guide map. We decided to explore this sleepy hamlet, tucked away
in the hills of Darjeeling District, hidden in mist and clouds almost throughout
the year.
A team of 21 we were, all excited and looking forward to spending a quiet
weekend, squeezed out of our busy schedules, miles away from the din of
city life and the aegis of modern communication devices. Thoroughly
convinced by a common friend and her husband, who had spent a fabulous
honeymoon there, we were tempted enough to put our money on it and pack
for a tour to an almost unheard of destination during the autumn of 2001.
One can take the overnight Darjeeling Express or the Jalpaiguri Express from
the Sealdah Station to reach New Jalpaiguri Station [NJP], which is the
nearest railhead. Bagdogra is the nearest airport for those who want to fly.
From there it is a 4-hr journey up-hill via Siliguri by bus/car as per your
conveniences. Lava stands against the backdrop of the Neora Valley National
Park at a height of about 2350mts (7755 ft). The National Park is at the
junction of Sikkim, West Bengal and Bhutan. The hilly drive is for about 95
kms via Damdim and Garubathan. If approached from Kalimpong, it takes 34
kms by bus/taxi to Lava.
Siliguri being just minutes from the NJP Station, we stopped there for a
sumptuous and hearty breakfast and one last phone call home, before setting
off on our journey.
A white Swaraj Mazda carried us from the NJP station along the zigzag hilly
terrain. The picturesque landscape was breathtaking and we enjoyed every
bit of it. The flora and fauna that North Bengal has to offer is worth a trip to
this part of the country, if not for anything else. We had river Teesta on one
side gliding along its course towards the Bay of Bengal, providing adventure
and entertainment to the variety of white-water rafters on it. The cascading
milky-white waters of the river sometimes cut our paths as a waterfall and at
other times as a wild stream.
Amongst all this, the greenery never ceased to soothe our vision. The hills
bore a soft look with the variety of trees, creating a huge contrast to the
rugged and brown North Indian landscape. We also left behind a dozen of tea estates along the way, which had beautiful names like ‘Ligripokri’ Tea Estate, ‘Nimti Jhora’ and ‘Cachar Tea Company’.
A halt at the Coronation Bridge was mandatory. Crossing the bridge, the road
bifurcates towards Sikkim on one side and towards Lava on the other. The
river flowed as usual along its course, underneath the bridge. Suddenly
someone spotted a small white pool hidden behind some trees and rocks,
forming the base of a waterfall. Almost all men pounced in the water with
their clothes on and its temperature froze their bones. But not a single soul
complained, for this must have been the most refreshing bath they’ve had in
many years. However, with the sounds of many cameras clicking away
capturing the beauty of the spot and the panoramic view of the area, all
boarded the bus, eager to reach our final destination.
We were met with hilly and winding path in our journey on the other side of the bridge. The temperature dropped considerably with the increasing
altitude and the aroma of the fresh mountain air made us realize what was
lacking in our daily lives. Gradually the numbers on the milestones decreased
when suddenly we noticed a sign saying "Welcome to Lava". That was
probably the happiest moment of our lives then.
As per prior bookings and arrangements we were to lodge for 2 nights and 3
days in the Forest Department Dormitory and log-cottages. This is the most
convenient and economical place to stay. However, you can book rooms for
yourself in the few private hotels in Lava Bazaar. It is the central point of the
town surrounded by small shops and a few numbered eating joints.
Most of the men in our group were to stay in the Dormitory and rest split in 5
cottages (2-3 in each of them). I couldn’t help remembering the fairy tales
that had wooden cottages in the jungle. Boy! If this isn’t adventure, then you
must be waiting for the fairy tale lions!!
The scarcity of food and thereby its worth now dawned upon us. The locals
manning the cottages cooked simple meal of chapattis, dal, a vegetable
and/or some egg curry if we were fortunate enough. The meals always
depended upon what was available in the market in the plains. However, to
cut the food blues, some foodie amongst us discovered ‘Orchid’ in Lava
Bazaar. This was a quaint little restaurant run by a Lepcha family, who lived
in the basement. You can get momos and some Chinese food to fill your
tummy here. And those who want to quench their thirst can satiate
themselves with a peg or two of the local booze.
Lava being a quiet retreat from the commotion of the city, it can surely help
you enjoy the amazing scenic beauty, drink in fresh air and experience an
elevated feeling from dawn to dusk. We were fortunate to experience some
atmospheric scenes which one only reads about and often visualizes, but
seldom experiences. The gradual floating of the clouds over the distant
mountain top, sometimes almost touching our out-stretched hands, at other
times being a guest through our cottage window. This was synchronized by
the slanting sunrays making their presence felt through the numerous deodar
trees. All these scenic beauties brought a feeling of immense peace and
enjoyment.
If admiring nature is not your forte and adventure is what your adrenalin
calls for, you can take some short and long treks from Lava. A two day trek
will take you to Dali Fort, Loleygaon, through a variety of forests and rivers.
Bagrakot or Samco is a 3-Day trek from Lava. To the Neora valley National
Park is a short trek of 3 days which will also cover Rachela Danda (trijunction
of West Bengal, Sikkim and Bhutan). Bird Watching, camping,
mountain biking, anthropological trips are some of the other activities you
can interest yourself with, provided you’ve packed accordingly.
Speaking of bird-watching, the ornithologist will even get enough to satiate
his desire for more. A visit to the Neora Valley National Park will tell you it’s a
birder’s paradise, since it houses some of India’s most sought after feathered
species. This semi-evergreen forest between 1600m-2700mtrs height, is the
nesting area for Partridges, Woodpeckers, Barbets, Cuckoos, Owls, Pigeons,
Bazas, Eagles, Thrushes, Robins, Bulbuls, Tesias, Warblers, Babblers,
Barwings, Fulvettas, Parrot bills, Flowerpeckers, Sunbirds, Accentors,
Rosefinchs to name a few.
The wooden cottages are well-equipped with a double bed, a table, a chair
and an attached bath with a geyser. However, a steady lack of electric supply
barely allows one to use the geyser. The evenings are lit up with the help of
generators and one can use the facility till 10 pm only. So we restricted our
entertainment of song, dance, booze and dinner till this time. So please do
not forget to pack your stock of candles, torches and batteries. I would also
suggest an umbrella as well, depending upon the season.
We woke up in the morning to the rhythmic sound of bells and chants only to discover a Buddhist Monastery in the distance. With a typical mixture of blue
and white hues, the colourful monument looked picturesque against the early
sun rays and the mountain backdrop. A visit to the place told us that its
name was Ratnarishi Bihar Buddhist Gumpa and next to it was the large
Neora Reservoir Lake. This we also found that was the centre of Himalayan
Medicinal Plants. From the monastery you can take a jeep ride to Tiffin Dara,
about 2.5kms west of the Bazaar. This point gives you a fabulous panoramic
view of the Kanchanjunga Range. 6kms south of the Bazaar will take you to
Samebiong Tea Garden, popular for its view of sunrise from Ghanti Dara.
There is another monastery at a 7km drive from the Bazaar at Gurukuchi
(Giltobung Monastery). The Changey Waterfall can be enjoyed about 12 kms
away.
Before we could realize it, the evening of Day-2 had arrived and we were to
set off on our return journey the following afternoon. Hence, the quiet
indulgent Care-taker treated us with a beautiful bonfire party. It was a oncein-
a lifetime experience for me. The silhouette of all against the flames with
the backdrop of the hilly forest was worth capturing in a video camera. Don’t
miss your bonfire party when you’re there, alright.
It was very difficult to switch off from this lazy mode and repack to return to
our busy schedules. It was as though our dosage of fresh air was still
incomplete. The consistent rain since the dawn of day 3 dropped the
temperature considerably, tempting us to return to our cozy blankets. But
unfortunately reality beckoned with both hands. Setting off in several Tata
Sumos we were to reach Siliguri after 4 hrs, to catch the night train from NJP
to Sealdah.
We however, did not forget to be frantic shoppers at the Siliguri Hong Kong
Market for the cheapest imported goods on this side of the border. This was
to show off on our return home. By the way, remember to pack your stock of
Yak milk toffees, churpi and titora from Lava.
So, the next time, someone needs an advice for a hill station vacation, you
know where to point on the map of India, right?