ESCAPE TO LAVA

Any mention of North Bengal and you get Darjeeling or Kalimpong at the top
of your mind. It’s rarely that one’s search ends at Lava, when going through
a tourist guide map. We decided to explore this sleepy hamlet, tucked away
in the hills of Darjeeling District, hidden in mist and clouds almost throughout
the year.
A team of 21 we were, all excited and looking forward to spending a quiet
weekend, squeezed out of our busy schedules, miles away from the din of
city life and the aegis of modern communication devices. Thoroughly
convinced by a common friend and her husband, who had spent a fabulous
honeymoon there, we were tempted enough to put our money on it and pack
for a tour to an almost unheard of destination during the autumn of 2001.
One can take the overnight Darjeeling Express or the Jalpaiguri Express from
the Sealdah Station to reach New Jalpaiguri Station [NJP], which is the
nearest railhead. Bagdogra is the nearest airport for those who want to fly.
From there it is a 4-hr journey up-hill via Siliguri by bus/car as per your
conveniences. Lava stands against the backdrop of the Neora Valley National
Park at a height of about 2350mts (7755 ft). The National Park is at the
junction of Sikkim, West Bengal and Bhutan. The hilly drive is for about 95
kms via Damdim and Garubathan. If approached from Kalimpong, it takes 34
kms by bus/taxi to Lava.
Siliguri being just minutes from the NJP Station, we stopped there for a
sumptuous and hearty breakfast and one last phone call home, before setting
off on our journey.
A white Swaraj Mazda carried us from the NJP station along the zigzag hilly
terrain. The picturesque landscape was breathtaking and we enjoyed every
bit of it. The flora and fauna that North Bengal has to offer is worth a trip to
this part of the country, if not for anything else. We had river Teesta on one
side gliding along its course towards the Bay of Bengal, providing adventure
and entertainment to the variety of white-water rafters on it. The cascading
milky-white waters of the river sometimes cut our paths as a waterfall and at
other times as a wild stream.
Amongst all this, the greenery never ceased to soothe our vision. The hills
bore a soft look with the variety of trees, creating a huge contrast to the
rugged and brown North Indian landscape. We also left behind a dozen of tea estates along the way, which had beautiful names like ‘Ligripokri’ Tea Estate, ‘Nimti Jhora’ and ‘Cachar Tea Company’.
A halt at the Coronation Bridge was mandatory. Crossing the bridge, the road
bifurcates towards Sikkim on one side and towards Lava on the other. The
river flowed as usual along its course, underneath the bridge. Suddenly
someone spotted a small white pool hidden behind some trees and rocks,
forming the base of a waterfall. Almost all men pounced in the water with
their clothes on and its temperature froze their bones. But not a single soul
complained, for this must have been the most refreshing bath they’ve had in
many years. However, with the sounds of many cameras clicking away
capturing the beauty of the spot and the panoramic view of the area, all
boarded the bus, eager to reach our final destination.
We were met with hilly and winding path in our journey on the other side of the bridge. The temperature dropped considerably with the increasing
altitude and the aroma of the fresh mountain air made us realize what was
lacking in our daily lives. Gradually the numbers on the milestones decreased
when suddenly we noticed a sign saying "Welcome to Lava". That was
probably the happiest moment of our lives then.
As per prior bookings and arrangements we were to lodge for 2 nights and 3
days in the Forest Department Dormitory and log-cottages. This is the most
convenient and economical place to stay. However, you can book rooms for
yourself in the few private hotels in Lava Bazaar. It is the central point of the
town surrounded by small shops and a few numbered eating joints.
Most of the men in our group were to stay in the Dormitory and rest split in 5
cottages (2-3 in each of them). I couldn’t help remembering the fairy tales
that had wooden cottages in the jungle. Boy! If this isn’t adventure, then you
must be waiting for the fairy tale lions!!
The scarcity of food and thereby its worth now dawned upon us. The locals
manning the cottages cooked simple meal of chapattis, dal, a vegetable
and/or some egg curry if we were fortunate enough. The meals always
depended upon what was available in the market in the plains. However, to
cut the food blues, some foodie amongst us discovered ‘Orchid’ in Lava
Bazaar. This was a quaint little restaurant run by a Lepcha family, who lived
in the basement. You can get momos and some Chinese food to fill your
tummy here. And those who want to quench their thirst can satiate
themselves with a peg or two of the local booze.
Lava being a quiet retreat from the commotion of the city, it can surely help
you enjoy the amazing scenic beauty, drink in fresh air and experience an
elevated feeling from dawn to dusk. We were fortunate to experience some
atmospheric scenes which one only reads about and often visualizes, but
seldom experiences. The gradual floating of the clouds over the distant
mountain top, sometimes almost touching our out-stretched hands, at other
times being a guest through our cottage window. This was synchronized by
the slanting sunrays making their presence felt through the numerous deodar
trees. All these scenic beauties brought a feeling of immense peace and
enjoyment.
If admiring nature is not your forte and adventure is what your adrenalin
calls for, you can take some short and long treks from Lava. A two day trek
will take you to Dali Fort, Loleygaon, through a variety of forests and rivers.
Bagrakot or Samco is a 3-Day trek from Lava. To the Neora valley National
Park is a short trek of 3 days which will also cover Rachela Danda (trijunction
of West Bengal, Sikkim and Bhutan). Bird Watching, camping,
mountain biking, anthropological trips are some of the other activities you
can interest yourself with, provided you’ve packed accordingly.
Speaking of bird-watching, the ornithologist will even get enough to satiate
his desire for more. A visit to the Neora Valley National Park will tell you it’s a
birder’s paradise, since it houses some of India’s most sought after feathered
species. This semi-evergreen forest between 1600m-2700mtrs height, is the
nesting area for Partridges, Woodpeckers, Barbets, Cuckoos, Owls, Pigeons,
Bazas, Eagles, Thrushes, Robins, Bulbuls, Tesias, Warblers, Babblers,
Barwings, Fulvettas, Parrot bills, Flowerpeckers, Sunbirds, Accentors,
Rosefinchs to name a few.
The wooden cottages are well-equipped with a double bed, a table, a chair
and an attached bath with a geyser. However, a steady lack of electric supply
barely allows one to use the geyser. The evenings are lit up with the help of
generators and one can use the facility till 10 pm only. So we restricted our
entertainment of song, dance, booze and dinner till this time. So please do
not forget to pack your stock of candles, torches and batteries. I would also
suggest an umbrella as well, depending upon the season.
We woke up in the morning to the rhythmic sound of bells and chants only to discover a Buddhist Monastery in the distance. With a typical mixture of blue
and white hues, the colourful monument looked picturesque against the early
sun rays and the mountain backdrop. A visit to the place told us that its
name was Ratnarishi Bihar Buddhist Gumpa and next to it was the large
Neora Reservoir Lake. This we also found that was the centre of Himalayan
Medicinal Plants. From the monastery you can take a jeep ride to Tiffin Dara,
about 2.5kms west of the Bazaar. This point gives you a fabulous panoramic
view of the Kanchanjunga Range. 6kms south of the Bazaar will take you to
Samebiong Tea Garden, popular for its view of sunrise from Ghanti Dara.
There is another monastery at a 7km drive from the Bazaar at Gurukuchi
(Giltobung Monastery). The Changey Waterfall can be enjoyed about 12 kms
away.
Before we could realize it, the evening of Day-2 had arrived and we were to
set off on our return journey the following afternoon. Hence, the quiet
indulgent Care-taker treated us with a beautiful bonfire party. It was a oncein-
a lifetime experience for me. The silhouette of all against the flames with
the backdrop of the hilly forest was worth capturing in a video camera. Don’t
miss your bonfire party when you’re there, alright.
It was very difficult to switch off from this lazy mode and repack to return to
our busy schedules. It was as though our dosage of fresh air was still
incomplete. The consistent rain since the dawn of day 3 dropped the
temperature considerably, tempting us to return to our cozy blankets. But
unfortunately reality beckoned with both hands. Setting off in several Tata
Sumos we were to reach Siliguri after 4 hrs, to catch the night train from NJP
to Sealdah.
We however, did not forget to be frantic shoppers at the Siliguri Hong Kong
Market for the cheapest imported goods on this side of the border. This was
to show off on our return home. By the way, remember to pack your stock of
Yak milk toffees, churpi and titora from Lava.
So, the next time, someone needs an advice for a hill station vacation, you
know where to point on the map of India, right?

Corbett National Park

Ultimate abode of the Beast

Wildlife fascinated me from my childhood. But this interest further intensified
when I relocated to Delhi from Kolkata, since North India offers an array of
wildlife parks and sanctuaries for the somewhat wild-hearted tourists. Since
then had I have had quite a few rendezvous with wild life, in their natural
surroundings.

Located in the Himalayan foothills is the majestic CORBETT NATIONAL PARK.
Home to a variety of flora and fauna, it is famous for its wild population of
the tigers, leopards and elephants. This sanctuary was established in 1936
and was then known as the ‘Hailey National park.’ India’s first National Park
and the first one to come under ‘Project Tiger’ Corbett park supports a
variety of vegetation making it an ideal habitat for the tiger and its prey.

Once a popular hunting ground for the British, this 201 sq miles (1200 sq
km) park was later named after the late Jim Corbett, the legendry hunternaturalist
turned author and photographer, who spent most part of his life in
this area and contributed to the setting up of this park as well. In 1973,
‘Project Tiger’ was launched here, with the guidance and assistance of the
World Wildlife Fund (WWF), and this park became one of the first tiger
reserves in the country.

Several modes of reaching this sanctuary are by air, rail and road. Phoolbagh
in Pantnagar is the nearest domestic airport 50kms away and Delhi is the
nearest international airport 300kms away from the Park. One can take a
train to Ramnagar, the nearest market town, to the National Park and then a
taxi to the Hotel. Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC) runs a semi-deluxe bus
service, which takes you on the 8-hour journey to Dhikala. From there you
can hop on to a bus available on a half hour interval to take you directly to
the gates of the wilderness. Any alternative cab service would also offer you
the basic facilities.

While making reservations at a suitable lodge or resort which have
mushroomed along the fringes of the Corbett Park, one can ask the travel
agent to book a jeep or elephant safari as well. This prior booking saves time
and energy. Most of these hotels offer a plethora of services which include
accommodation, guided tours of the nearby forests as well as the park, not
to mention the scenic locales around which they’re built. So you can take
your pick as per your convenience, interest and affordability. These range
from ‘The Claridges Corbett Hideaway’ ‘the Corbett riverside Lodge’, ‘The
Dikhala Forest lodge’, ‘The Sarapduli Forest Rest House’ among others.
Your Travel Agent or the Hotel Concierge can arrange permits to the park.
The other option is to obtain the same from the administration centre in
Ramnagar. Choose your entry gate as per your convenience and proximity.
Be sure to be there at least half an hour earlier to complete entry formalities.

Arriving during the early evening, we checked into our comfortable rooms,
devoured the delicious tea and decided to kill time on the banks of Kosi river
(which flows behind the hotel) for as long as possible. There was a majority
vote for returning early next morning for a quick refreshing dip, before we
set off on our jungle safari. With this we headed towards the hotel realizing
the danger lurking in the jungle overlooking us. The wild beasts alive and
about looking for suitable prey was a spine-chilling thought. It was as if I was
reliving the stories by Jim Corbett, read during my childhood. The locales,
the people, the jungles all sent an eerie feeling through my spine and I
couldn’t wait to take the Jeep ride the next day through their wild haven.

When our guide-cum-driver of the open Maruti gypsy informed us that the
best visiting season is from November 15 to June 15 and that the authorities
shut the gates from June 16 to November 14 due to floods, which
disconnects all the road links; we considered ourselves more than lucky. It
was the 1st week of October and Mr. Karan Johar was shooting for his film
"KAAL" here. Hence there was smooth accessibility. Remember to carry your
binoculars, remain as quiet as possible within the premises, to wear light
coloured clothes and no strong perfumes.
For the very wild at heart, the elephant safari is a favourite mode to get
around the wild terrain. It sure is safer high on top than the open jeep in
times of grave danger. It might be your life’s desire to see a live tiger.
However, when the beast does actually walk up to your jeep and stares at
you trying to hypnotize you with its gaze, you end up having mixed feelings
and are confused at what exactly is to be done.
The varied topography comprises of hilly and riverine areas, temporary
marshy depressions, plateaus and ravines. The lower areas are almost
completely populated by Sal Trees. Corbett national Park is a vast green
house of around 110 tree species. It also boasts of housing 50 mammal
species, 580 bird species and 25 reptile species.
Tourists throng to Corbett Park not only because it’s a haven for tigers. There are other wildlife attractions as well, which often fall prey to this beautiful stripped wildcat. Four kinds of Deer and Wild Boars are some of these less fortunate animals. However, you might just come across some leopards in the hilly areas as well as some nocturnal cats such as leopard cats, jungle cats and fishing cats. Sloth bear is found in the lower region, whereas the Himalayan Black bear is located in the higher hills only. The rocky hillside can offer some views of the ‘Ghoral’ or the Goat Antelope. You can spot some Dole or Wild Dog and Jackals in the southern areas of the park. The Himalayan Palm Civet, the Indian Grey Mongoose, the Common Otter, the Black-Nape Hare and the Porcupine are some of the smaller and lesserknown dwellers of this humungous sanctuary.
The shores of Ramnagar River offer a rare view of the long snouted, fisheating ‘Gharial’ Crocodile as well as the ‘Maggar’ Crocodile. Interested anglers can find a game or two at the Kosi River in the likes of the legendry ‘Mahseer’ and the River Carp. Lungoors and Rhesus Monkeys can be spotted on tree tops well distributed throughout the jungle, always ready with their characteristic alarm calls, warning the rest of the park of an approaching Tiger or Leopard. It’s strange how nature has its own ways of creating a security system.
Be it the jeep safari or the elephant back ride; wildlife view has an equal
charm on both. It’s preferable to visit the park at dawn or dusk, for during
the heat of the day a chital, Sambhar or other Deer species are mostly
commonly viewed. These preferred hours of the day may perhaps make you
a lucky tiger viewer. If not, you can surely spot fresh pug marks. I feel that
the latter itself should be no less exciting. You can also use the little rooms
(Machaans) built specially to spot the beasts from a higher level from the
ground, giving you a perfect bird’s-eye view. So, you never know what the
vast Savannah grassland, also known as the Maidan has in store for you.

If all of the above fails to burn your adrenaline, you can entertain yourself
with Rock- climbing, White-water rafting, Nature walks or some star gazing
at night.
Having said all this, our little Safari, however, was not quite fruitful, since we
never caught sight of any of the big cats. We returned quite half-hearted
having spotted some deer and peacocks. Perhaps our timing was wrong.
Anyway better luck next time!

Bhimtal

The Beauty of the Lake District

At any point in time, hill stations have never ceased to be my prime choice
for a holiday destination.
Among the most memorable includes Bhimtal, a scenic quaint hill-station
situated 22km from Nainital district in Uttaranchal. Owing to the variety of
popular and enchanting lakes like Nainital, Bhimtal, Sar Tal, Panna Tal and Naukuchiyatal, this Lake District was named as "Westmorland of India" by the British.
We planned our visit during the first week of October as autumn seems to be
the best time to visit Bhimtal since the temperatures are fairly pleasant
across both the hemispheres, unless you are looking for some extreme
climatic entertainment.
A 9-hour journey of approx, 280 kms by road, takes you to Bhimtal from
Delhi, with the necessary breaks in between. It’s preferable to take a night
bus, although for nature lovers, the exquisite landscape all the way up to the
town should not be missed. Hence a train journey is recommended. Ranikhet
Express from the Old Delhi Railway Station to the nearest railhead of
Kathgodam and a bus or taxi ride of 21 kms beyond that is advisable.
However, we thought that driving up all the way will perhaps have its own
charm, and hence we decided to take the bus ride.
Mountain mist, feeble sun filtering through sleeping deodars, an exhilarating
calm spreading up to the ranges beyond, hill birds twittering over blooming
marigolds- can any morning be more magical?
Waking up in Bhimtal makes you forget that just a few hours ago you were in
the midst of the Delhi heat. And with just half a day separating the noisy plains with these heavenly hills, the transformation was all too sudden and
too real to be true! However, the mesmerizing view of the sunrise was such a contrast from the one seen from the plains that our cameras never stopped clicking.
Bhimtal is the largest lake in this area and is named after Bhim, one of the
Pandava Brothers, in Mahabharat. The Tal or Lake is 1701m by 265m and is 265m longer than the Naini Lake. This is at a sublime height of 1371.6m above sea level. There is an island towards the north-eastern side of the lake about 91.4m from the shore, which is an exquisite gem in the water. This is
situated within the range of the temple bells, which have been chiming away for the last 300 years in a 17th Century edifice, beneath the shadow of the towering mountains rushing precipitously down to the emerald green lake.
Unlike its older cousin Nainital, this quiet hamlet has not been touched by
much commercialisation so far. Hence the quiet solitude is heart warming.
Depending upon your budget you can either stay at the couple of resorts that
the town has to offer. Or there are cheaper and economical hotels for the
regular backpacker, providing the basic amenities. Moreover, the Kumao
Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) and the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN)
offer many tourist lodges and rest houses throughout the area.
After sleeping off for almost the entire day, we were ready with our light
woolens and sneakers to explore the town on foot, couple of hours prior to
dusk. A day and a half is more than what you need to know Bhimtal. A
plethora of regular stone and wood houses and huts filled with smiling locals
dotted the area, as well as the nearby surrounding hills. The splendid view of
the mountain ranges and the hill stations beyond, from all sides of the town,
tells you why Bhimtal is really far from the maddening crowd. Don’t forget to
explore the local market place for a variety of cheap woolies, carved wooden
handicrafts, candles and some homemade jams and marmalade.
Night brought another wonderful spectacle. The glimmering lights of the
overlooking hills, spreading out like a starry sky, adding to the beauty of the
black canopy above was quite overwhelming. Sorry, I missed mentioning the
breathtaking sunset at the lake. When the flame orange ball went down the
far horizon, drowning in the water, which was painted in a similar hue, we
couldn’t help taking our hats off to the heavenly artist, who paints this
fabulously different canvas everyday.
Mesmerized by all this and more brilliant sights we returned to our hotel, only to catch similar views all around us, from the lawns. No one was willing to leave this scenic spot and we continued to sit amidst the falling due, through dinner and well beyond midnight. Songs, childhood stories and jokes kept us entertained along with crickets’ monotonous buzz as our steady
background music.
Since we were to set off for the next part of our journey after lunch the
following day, the energetic few were early to rise for a quick walk around
the remaining part of the town. Boat rides at this time offer pleasurable
enchantment and the lovely forest walks offer interesting birdlife and some
amazing butterflies. So, don’t forget those binoculars.
It was heart breaking when our buses set off in the afternoon. The weather
had suddenly changed and it began to drizzle. There was a slight nip in the
air, the overcast sky somewhat matching our emotions. It would be difficult to
erase these brilliant memories from our thoughts and I would most certainly
return very soon for fresh stocks.