Wedged between the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal and the Kingdom of Bhutan, Sikkim cozily sits in the lap of the majestic Kanchenjunga Range. The Sikkim Tourism department might give it a tagline of “Small but Beautiful”, there’s noting small about the jewels this land has to offer. This hot-spot of biodiversity promises vistas of mountains, lakes, monasteries, numerous species of flora and fauna and the unforgettable hospitable, simple and ever smiling people. All this and more welcomes you to this abode of peace, tranquility and mystique.
Gangtok was an obvious choice for a short vacation to escape the stressed and hectic schedule of daily life. An impromptu plan was decided upon and the 1st week of November that year saw a party of 15 set off to discover and solve the secrets of this hilly nook.
If you are on a tight schedule you can take a flight to the Bagdogra Airport from where the Hotel’s taxi services can take you to Gangtok which is 4 hours/125 km away. We took the train from Sealdah Station to New Jalpaiguri and from there the 127km/4 hours drive through the dense forests uphill, all the way to Hotel Annapurna in Gangtok. The Teesta River’s constant companionship on one side was an unmistakable sight. Its clean and pure white water gushing along and kissing the feet of the majestic mountains gives you a different kind of adrenalin rush.
Our uphill journey along the jungle roads brought us face to face with the fact that the localites work very hard to keep their Sikkim spick & span. Hence cleanliness is like a religion and littering is considered almost a crime. This was evidenced when one of our group was caught trying to do the same and received a stern word from the bus Driver and Conductor. Further, the State is a non-polythene zone. So do make sure you don’t carry any plastic bags.
The spectacular ride ended at the Central Bus Terminus of the small and cozy town of Gangtok. The remaining part of the journey (up to the Hotel) was completed in Maruti Vans with 4 passengers in each. Yes, interestingly, the meandering roads do not permit heavier vehicles that these.
The town warmly welcomed us with open arms and smiling faces of a unique blend of Nepalese, Bhutias and Lepchas- all part of the three ethnic groups of Sikkimese people. The Lepchas are believed to be Sikkim’s earliest and original inhabitants, the Bhutias came from Eastern Tibet and the Nepalese from Nepal. Although these groups follow their own culture and religion, they worship the mountains as the abode of Gods. Having said this, another smooth combination was noticed in the dressing sense of these people. On the one hand there were some localites wearing the Sikkimese Bakhu, whereas, on the other, a group of youngsters were headed towards college in their casual western wear. This ambience of a sense freedom in this quaint land left us quite amazed. Further, there were some American and European tourists who claimed they keep visiting Sikkim time and again only to try and understand and solve this mystique of the hills.
Since our date with site seeing was fixed for the next day, we decided to explore Gangtok town on foot and discover what it has to offer. A nice hot bath at the hotel got us hungry and we checked into a nearby restaurant for a sumptuous meal. It offered delicious platters of mixed Chinese, Tibetan and Sikkimese cuisine which included among other things gallons of thupka (noodle soup), tons of momos, nettle soup and edible orchids. If you’re a traveler you should always be eager and ready to experiment with the local food, since that’s how you experience the true essence of the place.
Having said that and stuffing our hearts and stomachs for the time being, we set out to explore the Lal Bazaar (local market). We packed ourselves with woolies since there was a slight nip in the air to add to the charm of the early evening serenity. The market, located at a slightly lower level brought us in touch with an array of local wares. One of the best places for you to pick up souvenirs such as woolens, the local Temi Tea leaves, as well as the Kukri styled local booze bottle. Plenty of Feng Sui articles, Thangkas, red and green chillies and Sikkimese Cheese are the other unmistakable items.
We woke up to a cold and misty November morning the next day, all prepared, excited and well padded up to combat the weather. Please do remember to carry heavy winter clothing with you (of course depending on the time of the year), which I forgot and bought there instead. Hopping into some Sumos, we were headed towards Tsongmo Lake, Baba Mandir, Nathu La Pass, Rumtek Monastery and the rest of the vicinity of Sikkim. We would be traveling for almost 60 km and to a height of at least 14,450 ft above sea level towards the Indo-China border.
As the sun rose our hearts felt a similar rise of emotions which doubled at the sight of the clear vision of the Kanchenjunga Range’s glistening peaks in a strange mix of white and golden hue. No wonder this majestic peak is known as the deity of Sikkim. This was one of the most spectacular drives I’ve been on so far. The farther we got from Gangtok, the grandeur of the scenery became further enhanced with wild flowers everywhere, craggy mountains with waterfalls, and slanting sun rays for company.
Although each of us had popped a pill avoid motion sickness, the constant action of the journey kept us falling sick. A sharp bend on the narrow mountain route brought us face to face with risk and beauty at the same time. Suddenly the entire area was engulfed in an envelope of heavy mist, but our skillful driver showed no sign of panic. He immediately took control of the familiar situation (he faces these everyday) and creepily drove us out of peril, thereby treating us with the most magnificent Kyangnosla Falls. At this moment even the Niagara Falls felt less exquisite.
One can admire and enjoy these exquisite falls either from the benches set for the same purpose or by climbing down to the pool which collects the water. So we took a welcome break and treated ourselves to hot cups of Sikkimese Tea made with Yak milk with the falls serving as an eye-candy for all. Some over-enthusiasts decided to get up, close and personal with Kyangnosla and fell into the ice-cold pool, but were saved in the nick of time by some localites. Guess we always have such over-smart companions for constant entertainment. Of course all this was captured in the cameras.
Nonetheless, our hunger for adventure and excitement grew double-fold. We had hit the road again and hadn’t quite got over what Kyangnosla had to offer. But lo-behold, a kilometer or two uphill, we turned a soft bend and held our breaths… the beautiful, calm, emerald green Tsongmo Lake, quietly nestled in a valley beckoned us and struck a chord in our hearts.
Tsongmo (pronounced as Changu) is about 40km away from Gangtok and is situated at an altitude of 12,000 ft on the Gangtok-Nathula highway. It is about 1km long, 15 km deep, is oval in shape and is home to Brahmi ducks along with a variety of migratory birds. Winter freezes this lake, they say, and it looks like a milky white sheet until mid-May. We were, however, unfortunate to experience the same, so will be back again. Currently we warmed our hearts with the brilliant mix of flora and fauna around the lake. Tsongmo offers other attractions such as Yak rides, souvenir shops and eateries.
Having soaked in whatever we could our convoy of Sumos moved forward towards Nathu La Pass. But the main topic of discussion was about Baba Mandir instead, which is located 50 km away from Tsongmo Lake at an altitude of 14,500 ft. Built in the memory of Major Harbhajan Singh (Aug 1941-Oct 1968) of the 23rd Punjab Regiment, Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir lies between Nathu La and Jelep La Passes. Legend has it that he had appeared in the dream of a fellow soldier a few days after he went missing under mysterious circumstances (he drowned in a glacier following the Indo-China War of 1962 and is said to have led the search party to find his body after 3 days), and expressed a desire that a monument be built in his memory. This memorial, has, over the years acquired the status of a pilgrimage. It is also believed that Babaji continues to protect the border and the soldiers stationed there, till date. He visits every night, wears his uniform and boots and does his regulation rounds. There’s a bed made for him every night, and every morning the crumpled sheets are smoothed out or changed, his boots polished and uniform readied. The departed soldier still draws a monthly salary and avails of an annual leave wherein his belongings travel by train to his hometown every year and his mother receives a some of money too. There’s a strong belief that Babaji grants boons, answers prayers and blesses and protects one and all. Hence believers leave a water bottle/can and collect it later, with the hope that their dreams will be fulfilled.
This shrine stands around Harbhajan Singh’s “Samadhi” and is bright yellow in colour with red roofs flanked with yellow Khalsa and red Om flags fluttering in the strong wind. You cannot miss the eerie feeling this place has to offer since it gives a completely different picture of what the soldiers endure to protect us. (I’m getting goose bumps as I relate this). The entire premise is manned by soldiers 24X7 and even when the place is hip deep in snow. One room of the Mandir is filled with wish-water cans (with name tags on them) and the other has a large framed photograph of Babaji along with other Hindu Gods. Most of the outer walls are tiled with marble plaques put up by various regiments asking for Babaji’s blessings and protection. The faithful were even seen to prostrate, ring several bells and leave offerings of money and incense.
Despite the bright sunlight at this altitude, it’s bitterly cold due to strong winds. Our plan was to visit the Nathu La Pass since we were just 10 km away from the famed Indo-China silk route. It is at a height of 14,750 ft and approximately 54 km from Gangtok. It is important to remember that tourist visit to the Pass is limited to Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays and a special permit is to be obtained 24 hours in advance. Since we had not obtained the same and moreover due to strong winds after noon, we weren’t allowed…so near yet so far.
Alpine meadows turning red hinting at the approaching winter, met us on our way back. Semi-wild yaks and mules grazed on the sparse vegetation as we turned our backs to Nathu La. Several small streams meander through treeless landscapes and make their way down to the vast lake. With great difficulty we detached ourselves from these scenic surroundings since we needed to reach Gangtok on time. It was beyond 5:30 pm when we touched base and had to trudge back to our hotel from the drop point…remember the no-vehicle rule?
Next days’ itinerary included a trip around Gangtok town and then Rumtek Monastery. The Enchy Monastery is at a walking distance from the Hotel. This beautiful structure was built in 1909 at the spot where Lama Druptob Karpo had constructed a small hermitage for meditation. The Lama had tantric powers and was believed to have flown from Mainom in South Sikkim to the hill-top where this Monastery stands today. Enchy means a place of solitude.
The Sikkim palace stands adjacent to Enchy in complete isolation and lifeless splendour. The ‘No Visitors’ Board outside was a clear indication for us to stay away and the guards double the warning with their stern body language. Please note that photography is strictly prohibited here, so it wasn’t possible to capture the beauty of the majestic building and the vicinity.
Our next stop was Ganesh Top standing atop a steep, secluded, wooded pathway upwards from the Palace. The amazing view of sprawling Gangtok as well as the panoramic view of the Kanchenjunga and Siniolchu peaks from here along with the treat from Tashi View Point are not to be missed.
Having spent half the day and soaked in the delightful splendour of what the town had to offer, we began our 24 km drive towards Rumtek Monastery after a quick meal. The Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre was built in 1960 by His Holiness the Late 16th Gyalwa Karmapa. This humungous and breathtaking blue, white and red structure is believed to be a replica of the original Kagyurpa Monastery in Tsurphu, Tibet and it houses some of the world’s most unique religious scriptures, manuscripts and art objects.
The old Rumtek Monastery which was originally built in 1730 is fifteen minutes downhill from the Centre. It was built by the 9th Karmapa but was destroyed in a fire and had to be reconstructed to its present state. The complex also constitutes an institute of Higher Buddhist Studies inside which is installed a golden statue of The Buddha flanked by Manjushree and Karmapa.
Interestingly, we realized that life in the Monastery was an amalgam of the ancient cultures and modern amenities. On the one hand we chatted and played carom and football with the boy monks who had sparkling and beaming round faces, and on the other, there were some young monks making traditional wheat-flour prayer symbols dipped in red dye. There was even a press with 2 printers laboriously hand-printing manuscripts to help hand down the age-old Buddhist Teachings. All these monks were then seen eagerly participating in the annual Tibetan dance festival called Tse-Chu Chaasus and Kagyat with equal élan.
The crisp mountain air and the haiku nature of the terrain left an indelible impression of the Sikkim trip in our hearts. It was difficult to accept that we’ll not be waking up to this enchanting ambience the following day. Carrying with us the essence of the Kanchenjunga worshippers, we left. But shall surely return since the mystique still remains to be explored and solved.
